I installed running boards on my 2018 Silverado in 2020. Two years later, I switched to nerf bars. Here's why—and how to decide which is right for your truck.
Both running boards and nerf bars help you get in and out of a lifted truck. But they're not the same. They look different, they perform different, and they're better for different situations.
The Quick Answer
| Feature | Running Boards | Nerf Bars |
|---|---|---|
| Width | Wide (4-6 inches) | Narrow (2-3 inches) |
| Step surface | Flat, full-length | Round tube, small contact |
| Best for | Daily driving, families | Off-road, trail riding |
| Ground clearance | Lower | Higher |
| Off-road durability | Can catch on rocks | Slides over obstacles |
| Price (installed) | $300-$600 | $250-$500 |
What Are Running Boards?
Running boards are wide, flat steps that run along the side of your truck, typically spanning the door opening. They're usually 4 to 6 inches wide and made of aluminum or plastic with a textured surface.
They provide a full-width step that's easy to stand on. If you have kids, elderly passengers, or you just want easy entry and exit, running boards are the better choice.
Pros of Running Boards
- Wide, stable step surface
- Easier for kids and elderly
- Better for daily driving
- More foot contact area
- Look more like SUV steps
Cons of Running Boards
- Lower ground clearance
- Can catch on rocks and curbs
- Not ideal for off-road
- Heavier than nerf bars
What Are Nerf Bars?
Nerf bars are narrow, round tubes (usually 2 to 3 inches in diameter) that run along the side of your truck. They're typically made of stainless steel or aluminum and provide a small step point at the door opening.
They're called "nerf bars" because they originated in off-road racing, where they protected the vehicle's sides without adding too much weight or reducing ground clearance.
Pros of Nerf Bars
- Higher ground clearance
- Better for off-road
- Lighter weight
- More durable in rough terrain
- Sleeker, more aggressive look
Cons of Nerf Bars
- Narrow step surface
- Less foot contact area
- Harder for kids and elderly
- Can be slippery when wet
Which Should You Choose?
Choose Running Boards If:
- You drive mostly on pavement
- You have kids who need to climb in
- You have elderly passengers
- You want easy daily entry and exit
- You prefer a wider step surface
Choose Nerf Bars If:
- You go off-road regularly
- You want maximum ground clearance
- You prefer a more aggressive look
- You don't have small kids climbing in
- You want something more durable for rough terrain
My Experience
I started with running boards on my 2018 Silverado. They were great for daily driving—easy to get in and out, good for my wife and kids. But when I started taking the truck on trails, the running boards kept catching on rocks. I bent one on a rock in Moab, and it started scraping on every rough trail.
I switched to nerf bars two years ago. The step is narrower, so it takes a bit more precision to step on, but the ground clearance is noticeably better. I haven't had any issues on trails since. The nerf bars slide over rocks instead of catching.
For my use case—50% daily driving, 50% off-road—nerf bars are the better choice. If I were purely daily driving, I'd probably still have running boards.
Installation Tips
Both running boards and nerf bars bolt onto existing mounting points on your truck's frame. Most installations take 1-2 hours with basic tools.
If you're installing yourself, make sure you have a jack or jack stands to support the truck while you work. You'll need to remove the old step bars (if any) and bolt on the new ones.
For running boards, you'll need to align the brackets carefully to ensure the boards are level. For nerf bars, the installation is similar but the narrower profile makes alignment a bit easier.
Price Comparison
Running boards typically cost $300-$600 for a set, depending on the brand and material. Aluminum running boards are on the lower end, while powered running boards (that extend when you open the door) can cost $1,000+.
Nerf bars typically cost $250-$500 for a set. Stainless steel nerf bars are more expensive than aluminum, but they're also more durable.
Materials and What Holds Up
The step you see from the showroom floor tells you almost nothing about durability. The construction underneath does. Here's how the common materials actually behave after a few winters.
- Aluminum (most common): Light, rust-proof, and strong enough for daily use. Aircraft-grade extruded aluminum is what I'd buy. It won't flake or corrode, and the brackets stay rigid for years. The main failure point isn't the board itself — it's cheap steel mounting brackets that eventually rust where they meet the frame.
- Stainless steel: Heavier and pricier, but essentially indestructible. Polished stainless looks great when new and shows water spots the moment it stops raining. If you don't enjoy polishing, go with a black powder-coated finish instead.
- Molded ABS plastic/composite: Common on budget running boards. Quiet and dent-proof, but it gets brittle after years of UV exposure and can crack if you drop a heavy trailer hitch onto it. Fine in mild climates; I'd avoid it where winters are harsh.
- Carbon steel with powder coat: Strong and cheap, but the powder coat will chip at the bolt holes eventually, and rust starts within a season or two in salt country.
Whatever you pick, inspect the mounting hardware twice a year. A loose bracket will eventually wallow out its mounting holes, and then the whole step starts to flex underfoot.
Winter Behavior: The Overlooked Factor
This is the detail that pushed me toward nerf bars and I never see it mentioned in product listings. Wide, flat running boards collect everything that falls from the sky — snow, slush, ice. After a storm I'd come out to a running board encased in a half-inch shell of ice. The textured step pad is useless under ice, so I'd be standing on a slick surface trying to get into my own truck.
Round nerf bars don't give snow anywhere to sit. It slides off or melts and drains. The step pads stay at least partly clear. If you park outside where it actually snows, that alone is worth the narrower step.
The trade-off is road spray. Both styles throw salt and grime up the doors, but nerf bars actually catch less of it, keeping the lower door slightly cleaner between washes.
Powered Running Boards: Worth It?
I've spent enough time around these to have an opinion. Electric (deployable) running boards tuck flush under the cab and swing down when you open the door, then retract when it closes. They give you the wide, easy step with nerf-bar-like ground clearance and a clean look.
What they also give you:
- A $1,200-$2,000 installed price instead of $400
- Electric motors under the cab, exposed to water, mud, and salt for the life of the truck
- A step that eventually deploys slowly or not at all in freezing weather
I've seen sets work flawlessly for six years and sets that needed a motor replacement at year three. If the budget is comfortable and you mostly drive in a mild climate, they're genuinely the best of both worlds. I'd still rather spend that money elsewhere on a working truck.
Fitment Details Before You Order
Steps are vehicle-specific, and a few details determine whether a set actually fits:
- Cab configuration: Regular, extended (Double/SuperCab), and crew cab all have different lengths. Ordering a crew-cab set for an extended cab is the classic mistake — the rear mounting points won't line up.
- Crew-cab length on full-size trucks: Some 1500/2500 models come in two crew-cab wheelbases. Confirm the part number against your exact cab.
- Bed-step vs cab step: A bed step mounts at the tailgate corner and flips down so you can reach into the bed. It's a different product entirely and one of the best $100-ish upgrades I've added — worth considering alongside whichever side step you choose.
- Lift and oversized tires: Most bolt-on steps still mount at the stock pinch-weld/frame locations with no change after a suspension lift, but a body lift can change bracket geometry. Confirm with the manufacturer if you're lifted.
- No-drill vs drilling: Modern kits nearly always use existing factory holes. If a listing says drilling required, double-check it's really made for your year and model.
A Few More Questions
Do running boards or nerf bars cause rust?
Not on their own, but they can hide a problem. The brackets trap moisture and road salt against the frame and rocker panels. Once a year, pull a bolt or two and check the contact points. A shot of wax or fluid-film under the brackets before install keeps the mounting area from staying damp.
Can I install them alone?
Yes, but the boards are awkward and heavy once the brackets are on — a second person keeps you from scratching the paint while you line up the bolts. Budget a Saturday, a socket set, and a torque wrench, and tighten to the manufacturer's spec rather than just "tight."
Will they void my warranty?
Bolt-on steps use factory points and don't modify the frame, so they don't affect the powertrain warranty. Keep the receipt in case a dealer ever asks whether the drilled or altered anything.